Creative Fibre Magazine December 2004 Vol.7 no.3

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December 2004 vol.7 no.3

Highlights:

Kumihimo - (kumi = coming together, himo = thread) Japanese braiding.

By Leigh Morris

Leigh Morris.jpg - 18kb

Japan began having contact with China from the 4th century. From this time kumihimo techniques, using fingers, not looms, were introduced to Japan from China. The introduction and the spread of the Buddhist religion during the 5th and 6th century's led to the development of many new braids because of their ceremonial significance. Braid design and use evolved and ultimately became synonymous with the Samurai warrior society, which was at its height from 1200 to1860. The practical uses of these braids were lacing up armour, wrapping the sword handle to create a secure grip, and hanging the sword on the belt. The sword was not looked on as a tool, but rather as a sacred object in which the human spirit was embedded. The warrior's identity and the school of his sword technique were expressed through his Sageo (the braided sash for hanging the sword on the belt). The Samurai training and culture included the expectation that the warriors be able to make and mend their own kumihimo requirements. The Samurai warrior was able to make a living from his kumihimo skills when his fighting abilities were not in demand.

The rise in traditional Japanese theatre from the 1600's called for sumptuous silk costumes with gorgeous braids for decoration and fastenings. The two level Taka-dai was invented at this time. It enabled the creation of braids which were visually very different from earlier braids.

The termination of the long lasting war in the middle of the 16th century, and a decree to outlaw swords in 1876, led to the demise of the Samurai culture. Many warriors changed and adapted their ancient methods of kumihimo to exploit the new fashions. For example, women began wearing a very wide Obi (a sash for the kimono which had previously been a fine band).

There was an explosion of Japanese cultural development at this time (1870's) due, one would imagine, to the lack of wars. This led to the development of new uses for braids, and beautiful new braid designs. Patterns were first documented during this period. Prior to this patterns were handed down orally. Professional kumihimo businesses expanded and keeping secret their own patterns and techniques.

The transition to western clothing after the Second World War and the mechanisation of braiding greatly reduced the number of kumihimo craftsmen. In the early 1970's the formerly secretive kumihimo businesses began to publish their patterns and techniques, and evolved into schools for kumihimo. This has led to the rise of kumihimo as a hobby, both in Japan and worldwide.

Kumihimo Equipment

A variety of looms have been created over the centuries. The common feature of all the looms is the weighted bobbins, which hold the threads in place during braiding. Bobbins used in one braid will usually be the same weight. Generally lighter bobbins are used for finer braids and heavier bobbins are used for larger braids.

Marudai

The most common loom is the Marudai (maru = round, dai = stand). This is a round stool shape, with a central hole, and can use up to 32 bobbins. The bobbins are arranged in a pre-determined pattern around the outside of the top. The threads are passed through the centre hole and a counterweight is attached to the threads. The bobbins are then moved in a repeating pattern with the braid going down through the centre hole. Varying the number of bobbins used, the number of colours used, their placement around the outside of the top and the sequence of bobbin movements creates a variety of patterns. The braids created on the Marudai can be square, round, triangular, hollow, or flat.

Kakudai

This is a square topped stand (Kaku= square). Up to 32 bobbins are arranged around the square top and a counterweight is attached to the threads. In this case however, the counterweight is suspended above the square top and the finished braid goes up from the top. This loom is used primarily to produce round braids.

Ayatakedai

This is a freestanding square loom (Aya = design, take = bamboo). The bobbins are hung from six separated notched pieces of bamboo, which are attached to a square frame. The braid is made by moving pairs of bobbins from notch to notch. The movement is held in place by the crossing of two thin "weft" bobbins after each set of movements. No counterweight is required because the finished braid is wound onto a bar at the back of the loom. This loom produces flat strong braids, with a twined structure similar to tablet weaving.

Takadai

This is a freestanding 'U' shaped loom (taka = high). The braider sits between the arms, which consist of two rows, on each side, of moveable blocks with pegs to separate the bobbins. Passing the bobbins from one side to the other through a hand created shed makes the braid. The thread is then lightly beaten into place. No counterweight is required as the finished braid is wound onto a bar at the back of the loom. Braids can be made using either one or both levels on each side. Only flat braids with a twill structure can be made on this loom.

Braiding on the Takadai

Creating braids on the Takadai is braiding, it is not weaving. In Takadai braiding, every thread acts as both warp and weft. Threads form a diagonal line towards the centre, and all threads are held at a 45° angle to the fabric length. Weaving has separate warp and weft threads and threads are either parallel or at right angles to the fabric length.

The Takadai produces a belt-like braid. The width and thickness of the braid is dictated by the number of bobbins used, the thickness of the threads and the number of threads attached to each bobbin. The initial length of thread attached to the bobbins and the 25% loss in length due to take up during braiding, dictates the finished length. The bobbin weight most recommended for use on the Takadai is 70grams per bobbin. However; thicker threads may require heavier bobbins.

Single layer braids

A single layer braid can be created using up to 60 bobbins (30 on each side). Braids can be varied by using one colour or more than one colour, with patterns being created by the placement of colours on the loom. When colour layout and method of braiding remain the same, a repeat pattern will be created. The initial layout of the bobbins can be changed during braiding to change the pattern. The braid may be single, two, three or four twill, or any combination of these. Textured or embossed patterns can be achieved by using a variety of twills within the braid.

Double layer braids

Leigh Morris Double Sided Braid.jpg - 29kb A double layer braid is created when both arms on each side are used. It is possible to use up to 120 bobbins to create double layer braids. There are two types of double layer braids - two-storey braid and a two-layer braid. A two-storey braid consists of two single layers produced simultaneously. The braid may be joined, either at one side to double the finished width, or at both sides to create a tube. Each layer can be the same or totally different in structure, colour and pattern.

A two-layer braid forms a double thickness joined braid. It begins with the threads on the top layer one colour and the threads on the lower layer another colour. Following a charted pattern, individual threads are exchanged between layers, either at the edges or within the braid, to create an individual motif or a repeating pattern.

I began braiding on the Marudai about 5 years ago. Three years ago I discovered the Takadai, made one, and have been smitten ever since. I am constantly enthralled by the diversity of patterns that can be created on single layer braids purely by the placement of colours within the braids. The two layer braids, whilst extremely time consuming, provide me with the challenge of designing my own braids.

Ref: Martin Catherine: Kumihimo Japanese Silk Braiding Techniques. Owen Rodrick: The Big Book of Sling and Rope Braids. Tada Makiko: Comprehensive Treatise of Braids 1 & 111

To make it easier for others to discover the joys of Takadai braiding, Leigh has for sale Takadai, which are suitable for using on a table. For information on this or other braiding questions: Leigh Morris, 24 Ocean Cres., Papamoa, Tauranga. 07 574 8120 joelene.m@xtra.co.nz